Mr. Broadway
Meat
Supervision: Tarnopol Kashrus
1776 Ocean Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11230
Phone: (718) 600-4499
After relocating to a larger Manhattan space in 2023 – following many decades in its original location – Mr. Broadway embarked last year on a new venture across the river. I’m pleased to report that the Brooklyn outpost lives up to the Mr. Broadway name, delivering both excellent cuisine and attentive service.
While the Brooklyn menu does not include some Manhattan staples such as filet mignon or sushi, it more than holds its own. The rib-eye steak, generously marbled and expertly seasoned, could be cut with a butter knife. Its flavor evoked the classic taste of old-school barbecue, reminiscent of an era when authentic charcoal grills imparted a deep, unmistakable richness.
The stuffed cabbage appetizer struck a deeply nostalgic chord. For this writer, it recalled a more primal style of cooking, relying on simple, honest ingredients rather than sweetness as a shortcut to flavor. The accompanying red cabbage had the look of coleslaw but, with little or no mayonnaise, delivered a peppery crunch that was both refreshing and restrained.
The sliders – served on proportionately sized rolls that neatly embraced the meat – were topped with fresh lettuce and tomato and easily satisfied any carnivore’s appetite.
Chef Ari surprised us with a plate of house-made pastrami prepared especially for our table, and it was nothing short of outstanding. For more years ago than I care to remember, the first Glatt kosher Chinese menu was introduced by Schmulka Bernstein on Essex Street on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. Bernstein was also widely known for his exceptional deli. It was there that my wife, Janice, once proclaimed she had tasted “the finest Romanian pastrami of her life” – that is, until the pastrami Ari served us, which functioned as a true culinary time machine.
When we arrived around 6 p.m., a line had already formed, with diners waiting patiently to be seated by Reggie, the gracious and personable maître d’. That line, without exaggeration, continued throughout the evening, a testament to the restaurant’s popularity.
For the economically minded diner seeking uncompromised quality, Mr. Broadway of Brooklyn delivers excellent value, pairing robust flavors with fair pricing and a consistently welcoming atmosphere.