Mojo’s
Meat
Queen Shlomziyon Street 1, Jerusalem
02-663-0438
Supervised by OU & Rabbanut
At the epicenter of kosher gourmanderie (AKA Jerusalem), at the center of the city, at 1 Shlomtzion Street, is Mojo’s Restaurant. Simply put, it is a meat-lover’s paradise. Steak, lamb, chicken, burgers, pastrami, sausage, all prepared to whet the appetite of the American meat-lover’s palate.
Tzvi Maller, Mojo’s owner and chef, is self-taught. He fell in love with cooking when as a 12-year-old latchkey kid, he invented nachos covered in mac and cheese.
Mojo’s opened six months before October 7 and is named for Shakey’s Pizza’s famous Mojo potato dish in Los Angeles (which is not on the menu and Maller enjoyed before he kept kosher). Maller grew up in the Valley, in Northridge. The name also refers to his reopening a restaurant after a few years’ hiatus, “I felt I got my mojo back,” he says.
I am sipping a delicious Whiskey Peach Sour drink while he regales me with his history as a restaurateur. The cocktail’s recipe was invented by his daughter, the restaurant’s manager, Eden, one of his seven children, all of whom have worked at the restaurant.
Maller, who was one of the original founders of Crave Restaurant, also in Jerusalem, set out on his own to open Mojo’s. His goal: “To execute great food, with love, all the time.”
Before making aliyah the second time, Maller first opened Sushi Metsuyan in Teaneck, New Jersey, then the Pasta Factory in Teaneck, and later another Sushi Metsuyan in Monsey. After operating the Pasta Factory as a dairy restaurant for 5 years it was time to go meat, and Nobo Wine and Grill Restaurant was created, with Chef Joshua Massin at the helm. Nobo became the go-to place and still is operating in Teaneck. In Maller’s opinion, Chef Joshua is a culinary genius and may be the top chef in the kosher market today.
Maller references the band the Grateful Dead, who had special sections of their concerts where people could tape their music. When asked why they were giving their music away for free, Jerry Garcia said, “Once I play the music, I won’t play it again the same way.” That’s how Maller refers to his food preparation – “It’s evolving, different every night
because there are always ways to make the food better. You are only as good as your last meal. Every day we try to be better than the day before.”
And Maller is completely transparent about his recipes. Literally. The restaurant looks into the back kitchen through a clear glass. You can observe the food being made. Or you could just eat and enjoy it.
Maller takes his role as chef very seriously. Everyone must respond to him and each other with, “Yes, Chef,” and his staff even wear hats with that logo.
Maller was a psych major at San Diego State University. He’s a ba’al teshuvah and still working on it. “Do we ever stop?” he asks.
The 54-year-old is in great shape, even though he’s surrounded by tons of cholesterol. He bikes 20-30 kilometers every day. “I take care of myself, then I eat my food.”
Mojo’s offers meat lovers’ pizza that has kosher pepperoni, lamb “bacon” and sausage. The cheese is made from coconut milk. There is also the option of a gluten-free crust. There are a few vegetarian options, including a Caesar Salad and a lemon curd.
Maller says that 90 percent of restaurants don’t survive the first year. So how did they survive with a war going on? Maller’s parents spearheaded fundraising efforts from California to feed the soldiers in Israel. In this way, Mojo’s became part of the war effort. One of Maller’s sons also spent a year and a half as a soldier in Gaza. He was called up on Simchat Torah and Maller didn’t see him again for three months. And all Israelis know, war and midnight sirens can work up one’s appetite.
Thank G-d the war is over and the restaurant is full. “You leave here with a lot of energy,” says Maller.
The restaurant is open from noon to 11:00 p.m. and though there are three seating areas, it’s small so reservations are in order. Maller is looking to expand though, he says, as he eyes the area across the street.
Mojo’s has a rotating staff of 35-40 people, all young, all bilingual and all really friendly and with a good serving ethic. The atmosphere of the restaurant is relaxed, with muted lights, candlelight, upbeat music and an inviting vibe.
The hechsher is Israel’s OU. This is because Maller doesn’t want to compromise on many of the products he uses. All meat is under the supervision of Rabbis Rubin, Landau and Machpud.
On Mojo’s kitchen wall is a sign that says “Every Second Counts,” taken from the TV series The Bear, an Emmy-award-winning show about a family restaurant.
Maller quotes Meir Michel Abehsera, z”l, known as “the (Chabad) Rebbe’s whistler,” an expert on macrobiotics who said, “You gotta cook with love, love, love. And you taste the difference love makes.”
“I love what I’m doing,” Maller says. He has a personal relationship with his patrons. He greets many with a hug. In fact, a patron sitting next to me had filled in as a chef a few nights previously. It’s basically one big happy family.
So I brought mine too. My granddaughter and son loved the kosher pepperoni pizza. I found the ribs decadently good. My daughter-in-law loved the salad. Though we ordered in abundance, there was very little left over.
The portions are generous, without being overwhelming. Expect to spend a bit more than in similar style restaurants, although the food is unique.
And don’t forget to give Maller a hug when you see him – on the left side – “Heart to heart,” as he likes to say. He’s there most of the time. And remember, don’t forget to say, “Yes, Chef!”
A five-minute walk from Light Train station Yaffo Mercaz
itsmojos@gmail.com 02-663-0438 Website: https://www.itsmojos.com/
Nobo Wine and Grill in Teaneck: https://www.facebook.com/noboteaneck/